Antonio Manuel is 71 and still fishing. Like most in this whitewashed village, he regularly takes on the brunt of the Atlantic in a small diesel boat. We see him walk along the shoreline with a cane pole and chicken gut. He's usually up to his waist in the surf surrounded by rocks. This is where he hunts up to 30-kilo Conga eels. They can break your arm with their body whilst dicing up your fingers with their teeth. They are also an essential ingredients in an authentic Caldirada, (the Portuguese Bouillabaisse). Cooked in a witch's pot over an open fire for several days, it's a dish of many of surprises, some of which you are sure to smell later.
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